Recipe for a Nicaraguan Holiday

>> Monday, September 17, 2007

4 gross fuegos artificiales (fireworks). Note: Nothing flashy—only homemade fireworks that make noise like bombs and/or gunshots.
3 gallons each Toña & Victoria beer (may substitute Caballito)
2 bushels street vendors
6 dz. high school marching bands
4 Tbs. waiting on the curb in the hot sun
2 parts/person reggaeton music
1 pinch Jehovah’s Witnesses
Chavalo pickpockets a su gusto (to your liking)

To prepare the ingredients, the majority of classes the preceding week must be cancelled. Soak the city in fireworks beginning at 3 am the night before and continuing at closely spaced intervals until they are all used. In large stadium, combine beer, street vendors, and marching bands at 8:00 am. Let sit baking in the sun until 11:00. Spread mixture evenly throughout city in a desfile (parade). Sprinkle huge speakers full of reggaeton music very close together and repeat same two songs for rest of day. Stir in Jehovah’s Witnesses and pickpockets until smooth. Continue baking in hot sun for 4 hours, or until streets are covered in bottles, plastic bags, and other trash. To allow for full digestion, the majority of classes the following week should be cancelled. ¡Buen Provecho!

Serves 5,465,100.

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Condition of the Schools

>> Friday, September 14, 2007

I was in the Peace Corps office in Managua looking for teaching materials when I came across an op-ed in an English teaching magazine that was talking about how teachers reading the magazine should feel lucky to have classes with a maximum of 30 students, textbooks, and photocopies because even though it’s tough to imagine, some English teachers around the world don’t have those luxuries. You might not consider these basic things luxuries and five months ago we wouldn’t have either, but to English teachers in Nicaragua they definitely are.

In my school there is only one textbook and it is—no exaggeration—35 years old. It is really weird and so it teaches antiquated stuff like, “How do you do?” I had to explain to my counterpart that I’d never heard anyone use that phrase outside of an ESL textbook or a Hemingway novel, but it’s what everyone learns here. One textbook Holly used during training had a unit on eating out at a restaurant, and examples included “Have you tried our pea soup appetizer?” and “Do we have to check our coats?” These examples would be irrelevant for students in the US, but are even more unhelpful here where no one needs a coat, let alone a place to check it. Some of the textbooks are slightly more up-to-date… one book we’ve seen has a unit called, “Don’t buy that! It’s pirated!” and begins with a dialogue with a boy and a girl. The girl says, “Look at these Nike sneakers. And those Calvin Klein jeans! They’re so cheap!” and the boy looks at her gravely and says with his best Hermione Granger voice, “They’re not Calvin Klein or Nike. Don’t buy these things… they’re pirated.” That topic is certainly more trendy, but still not the most useful phrase in a place where pirated movies and fake Puma t-shirts rule the land.

When I say that there’s only one textbook I don’t mean that there’s only one option. I mean that there’s literally one book for the whole school. The teachers are the only ones with books, so any activity that comes out of the books has to be photocopied for the whole class. But schools don’t have photocopiers and so everything would have to be copied at a bookstore and paid for by the teacher. In the past, the schools would charge the students for the copies, but with the change in government the decision was made that education should be free with no strings attached, and now that practice is prohibido. Photocopies are about the same price here as they are in the US, but since teachers earn far less here and have nearly three times as many students in every section as a classroom in the States, copies are far too expensive for teachers to provide out-of-pocket for their students very often, if at all. What happens now is that any activity or exercise that we want to do in class has to be written on the markerboard, copied down by the students (which takes about 10 times longer than you’d think), and then the students can start learning. Difficulties with limited resources aren’t just limited to English class.

Unlike high schools in the US, here students are stationary and the teachers move around. Many of the classes at Holly’s school have at least 60 students, some with even more with most classrooms being no larger than a typical room in the States. Moreover, there are usually only about 50 desks in each class so there are a lot of students sharing; I don’t think students could keep from cheating if they wanted to. One time at school my counterpart and I did an activity where the students were supposed to describe members of their own families using adjectives that they learned in class. The next day they were writing some of their homework on the board and at least three students wrote the same wrong answer: “My brother is smal, fat, and handsome.” One clever student tried some to show that he wasn’t cheating by simply changing the sentence to “My sister is smal, fat, and handsome.” Sometimes I feel that the creed “eyes on your own paper” should probably be replaced by the more realistic plea, “please limit yourself to eyeing only the papers of your immediate neighbors.” Obviously, these combined challenges make it difficult for teachers to teach and students to learn; fortunately, however, we’re working with teachers here that believe that things can change to get kids interested in class and help them to learn English. Our Peace Corps project focuses on helping the teachers with their English, but perhaps more importantly (our boss would eagerly tell you) with using communicative, dynamic methods and developing locally available resources as simple as pictures from magazines or newspapers. The Peace Corps mantra is unarguably “sustainability,” so the idea is to not only teach kids English, but also to work with our counterparts to come up with ideas for the classroom that they can continue to use and share long after we’re gone.

Neither of us is under the impression that things will dramatically change immediately or even within the two years, so we’re trying to keep realistic expectations. We hope to be able to teach students that if they are going to cheat, they need to do it in a way that isn’t immediately obvious and when they come stroll into the pirated movie store in their $2 Puma shirt they can chide someone else in perfect English for wearing fake Nikes.

Here's the outside of my school:

This is the "inside":
Two students hanging out by the basketball court:
A first-year (7th grade) classroom:
 The outside of Holly's school:
A picture of the concession stands:

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Safe and Sound at Home

>> Tuesday, September 04, 2007

I wanted to post a quick update to let everyone know we're keeping an eye on Felix, but nothing is expected where we are except for maybe some rain (and we get rain every day anyway). :) Some of the volunteers in the north are being consolidated together, but that really just means that they're getting to stay in nice hotels with hot water and cable TV.

In other news, we finally have a house! We just moved in on Sunday, so we're still getting settled in. The most important thing is that we have our hammocks set up prominently in the living room and we spend plenty of time relaxing in them in the evenings after school.

Here are just a few pictures we took the evening we officially rented the house to give everyone an idea of what it's like. We'll have to post some more once everything is unpacked and put away. First here is a picture of the house from the outside. It's on a corner, so we have that nice little patio on the side to hang our clothes or sit out and watch the people passing by.

 Here is a look from the front of the house through the living room toward the back. The bedroom is on the left, the hallway is on the right, and you can see the bathroom door in the back right corner. The kitchen area is back behind the bedroom.
 Finally, here's a look from the bedroom back toward the front of the house in the living room. It's nice that our house has a lot of doors, because we can open them to let a nice breeze in. The baby on the door is a calendar that came with the house, I guess.
 It's really nice to have our own place, and now we finally won't have to pack up our stuff and move again until it's time to come home!

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Local News

>> Thursday, August 30, 2007

I decided to check up on news from my hometown in the states and I found this article that seemed to be of interest since the power is always out in downtown Masaya during the day. No joke, from 7 am until 2 pm the power is out and there's definitely no article in El Nuevo Diario about how the three people at the relojeria near the market were inconvenienced. The last guy in the article's got the Nicaraguan spirit, though. He would fit right in.

Blackout interrupts workday downtown

Amos Bridges
News-Leader

Work ground to a halt when an electrical transformer caught fire downtown Wednesday.

Many downtown businesses and city and county offices went without power for more than two hours in the afternoon — the second time in less than two weeks for some.

Power was restored just after 3 p.m., but several government offices remained closed because employees had been sent home for the day.

The blackout, which began about 12:20 p.m., had been expected to last into the early evening as City Utilities crews made repairs to a substation that had been damaged by lightning Aug. 20.

The outage caused significant disruption at area businesses, with many closing early. "You just realize how much you rely on technology," said Andy Marquart, museum manager for the Discovery Center, 438 St. Louis St. Marquart said only two families were touring the center when the lights went out, but the outage still caused frustration for the visitors.

The outage disrupted a speech by Gov. Matt Blunt, who was at the Springfield Expo Center to announce grants to assist several area towns with downtown revitalization. After several seconds of darkness, some lights came back on, but the sound system did not — forcing Blunt to raise his voice to be heard by the 300 attendees.

Store owners on Boonville Avenue adapted, as well. Edgar Hagens, owner of Rock's Dress Out Fashion and Jewelry, said the outage didn't bother him at all. "It was kind of a dead time — I just got a little hotter," he said. "I had to take my shirt off."

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Gringo's Paradise

>> Sunday, August 19, 2007

Last weekend was our first anniversary and since we aren't yet allowed to take vacation days, we thought that we'd be able to celebrate it by eating some Papa John's pizza (there's one not too far away), but we decided instead to spend a day in Granada soaking up the gringo amenities.

Granada is a really nice colonial city that's just a 30 minute bus ride away from Masaya. There are a lot of ex-pats that live there, and as a result, a pretty cosmopolitan atmosphere with tons of great restaurants and places to go. We walked around a little bit and then we ate at a restaurant with some good vegetarian options. The first vegetarian menu I saw in Nicaragua looked something like this:

Chicken and ribs on the vegetarian menu is about what I've come to expect, but instead I had a great veggie kabob and then we polished it off with some hummus and gelato. Here are some pictures from Granada:

Most of the buildings in Granada are painted very bright and festive colors, including the cathedral in central park:
Here's Holly modeling the best (only) hummus and pita we've had in Nicaragua:
This is the best anniversary present ever (and my new accidentally super short hair):
 The Lago de Nicaragua:
Here's a really old and not at all festively painted church:
Since then, we also experienced and survived the biggest test of our marriage yet: we shared just one copy of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and made it all the way through without losing an ear in the struggle.

You can see more pictures from Granada and other stuff here.

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